There is still some disagreement over what to call these early hunter-gatherers. Margate, 133km from Durban, is the transport and holiday hub of the area, with plenty of resorts lying to the east and west of it. There’s excellent snorkelling at Jesser Point, a tiny promontory at the southern end of the bay. The British set alight Cetshwayo’s capital at Ondini – a fire that blazed for four days – and the king was taken prisoner and held in the Castle in Cape Town. This led to a split in the Zulu state, with one half following King Mpande, and collapse threatened when Mpande’s sons Mbuyazi and Cetshwayo led opposing forces in a pitched battle for the succession. Although this is a continuation of the same escarpment that divides the Mpumalanga highveld from the game-rich lowveld of the Kruger National Park and continues into the northern section of the Eastern Cape, when people talk of the Berg, they invariably mean the range in KwaZulu-Natal. There’s enough here to keep you busy for a few days. Where Hluhluwe-Imfolozi really scores over the Kruger is in the variety of activities on offer. The range is actually an escarpment separating a high interior plateau from the coastal lowlands of KwaZulu-Natal. The majority of the white population (about 60%) is of Afrikaans descent, with many of the remaining 40% being of British or European descent. The best times for hiking are spring and autumn. Howick, 18km northwest of Pietermaritzburg, is recorded as the place where his historic detention began; the actual spot is on the R103, 2km north of a side road heading to the Tweedie junction. However, most people come to Durban because it provides a logical springboard for visiting the region. Inexpensive Indian takeaways – all open very early and usually shut by 5pm – abound in the city centre. Today, the celebration is attended by a who’s who of South African Zulu society; there are speeches by the likes of Inkatha Freedom Party leader Chief Mangosuthu Buthelezi, along with music and fantastic displays of warrior dancing, the men decked out in full ceremonial gear and armed with traditional weapons. The interior north of the Tugela River was the heartland of the Zulu kingdom and witnessed gruesome battles between Boers and Zulus, British and Zulus, and finally Boers and British. As the turtles are easily disturbed, only a few licensed operators are allowed to escort visitors to watch the turtles at night. Drive the same distance, but turn right instead of left at the Mtubatuba junction, and you’ll hit the southernmost extent of South Africa’s most satisfyingly “tropical” coast. In the caves open to the public, you can see depictions of human-like figures in the process of transforming into their power animal. By far the most interesting sight around here is the Ondini Historical Reserve, which houses the reconstruction of the royal residence of King Cetshwayo, a site museum and a cultural museum. San artists were also shamans, and their paintings of hunting, dancing and animals mostly depict their religious beliefs rather than realistic narratives of everyday life in the Ukhahlamba Drakensberg. South Africa’s first wilderness trail started in Imfolozi, and the reserve has remained the best place in South Africa for these (all are available from mid-March to mid-Dec). Durban scored another first in 1973 when workers in the city precipitated a wildcat strike, despite a total ban on black industrial action. Hugging the border with Lesotho, South Africa’s premier mountain wilderness is mostly a vast national park officially known as the Ukhahlamba Drakensberg Park. It’s essential to bring a camping stove, food and a sleeping bag. 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